Wedding dress

NameEnsemble

Artist Artist Not Recorded

Dateca. 1900

Place madeUpper Villages of Bitola, North Macedonia, Balkan Peninsula/Southeast Europe, Europe

MediumWool, cotton, metal, metallic thread, glass beads

Credit LineThe Ronald Wixman/Stephen Glaser Collection; Gift of Bernard W. Ziobro; IFAF Collection

Object numberV.2018.17.1-9

ProvenanceThe Macedonian Arts Council, from 2007-2010, presented as a gift to the Museum of International Folk Art 25 ensembles of multiple pieces. While a small number of the pieces were purchased, the majority of the costumes were donated to the Arts Council by collectors based in the United States and Macedonia

DescriptionThe villages in this area are known as the Upper Villages of Bitola. Among the Bryak villages there were many similarities in dress but with locally significant details. The similarities include the use of a long black wool belt that was wrapped around the waist to create a straighter silhouette and thus better presentation of the apron. The belt, called poyas, was made of braided wool. The braids were used singly in some places or were sewn together to make a wider belt as here. The color orange replaced the madder red shades of the earlier nineteenth century. Another common feature was the embroidered appliqué on the front of the sleeveless wool shayak (over-coat). These decorations were usually done on a base of red cotton cloth. The skopetz or coin chain fastened at the waist is particular to the Bryak as well (Young Brides, Old Treasures: Macedonian Embroidered Dress, edited by Bobbie Sumberg, 2011).

Parts of Ensemble: A.2008.7.2, Dickey: grlo, 20th century
Parts of Ensemble: A.2008.7.21, Head kerchief: darkma, c. 1900
Parts of Ensemble: A.2008.7.24, Waist ornament: Kopec (Kopets), c. 1900
Parts of Ensemble: A.2008.7.38V, Belt and buckle: kolan so pafti, ca. 1900
Parts of Ensemble: A.2009.15.15, Jacket: alsi shaak, c. 1900
Parts of Ensemble: A.2009.15.16, Apron: futa alska, c. 1900
Parts of Ensemble: A.2009.15.17, Sash: crni pojas, c. 1900
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.6.57, Chemise: Kosula, c. 1900
Parts of Ensemble: FA.1972.26.1 E, Coin Necklace: Coin Necklace, c. 1900