Men's ewe cloth

NameCloth

Maker Gilbert Ahiagble (Ghanaian, 1944 - 2012)

CultureEwe

Date2006

Place madeDenu, Ghana, Africa

MediumCotton

Dimensions66 15/16 × 101 9/16 × 1/16 in. (170 × 258 × 0.1 cm)

Credit LineMuseum of International Folk Art, gift of Barbarine Rich, A.2018.4.16

Object numberA.2018.4.16

ProvenanceThese textiles were sourced by Dr. Duncan Clarke, who earned his PhD from the School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London, specializing in aso oke (Nigerian strip weaving). He published a number of books on West African textiles and works as a high-end dealer in London. The donor purchased the textiles from Dr. Clarke. She began selectively collecting textiles many years ago and intended to launch her own private textile museum in a house beside the Wheelwright Museum on Museum Hill in Santa Fe. These plans were stalled and more recently abandoned when her young daughter was discovered to be terminally ill; she began to divest her large textile holdings.

DescriptionGilbert Ahiagble, better known by his nickname “Bobbo” (meaning “a big noise”), was born into a family of master Ewe Kente weavers in Agbozume, near the Togo border. As a young man, he founded his own weaving school, the Craft Institute of Kente Weaving, in the nearby town of Denu. The school evolved into a thriving workshop, and by the 1970s, Bobbo’s work had gained international recognition. He traveled extensively, conducting workshops and demonstrations, earning the title “Cultural Ambassador of Kente Cloth.” Bobbo was a frequent artist-in-residence and teacher at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African Art, where his legacy is well represented in their collections. His works are also held in prestigious institutions such as The British Museum and the Seattle Art Museum. Among Bobbo’s eleven sons, three have continued the family tradition as master weavers. Bobbo’s work is celebrated for its striking use of color, achieved by plying three or more threads in multicolored warps, combined with simple yet traditional inlay motifs. This man’s cloth exemplifies his artistry, comprising 17 narrow strips woven with supplementary weft designs. The patterns feature key and leaf motifs, geometric designs, and the agama (chameleon), symbolizing patience and adaptability. The cloth is made from polished cotton, locally manufactured in Ghana. Notably, some of Bobbo’s designs were misappropriated and reproduced by J.C. Penney as bedsheets, reflecting his influence but also the challenges of protecting artistic heritage.