DepartmentTextiles-Europe
New bride's dress
NameEnsemble
Artist
Artist unrecorded
Dateca. 1920
(not assigned)Ovche Pole, Middle Vardar, North Macedonia, Balkan Peninsula/Southeast Europe, Europe
MediumCotton, wool, metallic thread, paper, metal, rayon
Credit LineGift of Mr. Donald V. Berlanti.
Object numberV.2018.28.1-12
ProvenanceThe Macedonian Arts Council, from 2007-2010, presented as a gift to the Museum of International Folk Art 25 ensembles of multiple pieces. While a small number of the pieces were purchased, the majority of the costumes were donated to the Arts Council by collectors based in the United States and Macedonia
DescriptionCharacteristic of the more eastern part of the country, this chemise has little embroidery, only a very narrow band of needlework on the edge of the sleeve. The white dickey is called a manta here. A tailor constructed the red striped elek in an unusual fashion. After the fabric was woven, the tailor would cut it into shape, stitch and gather each skirt piece, and then sew the pieces. This process created the distinct crinkled texture needed for this garment. The soberly striped apron with three very narrow bands of tiny woven motifs on each side was tied on over the patterned belt, zunitsa. The quilted black cotton velvet minton went over everything. The bride and newly married woman wore a black scarf, kalavatka; unmarried girls wore a white scarf on their heads. Older examples had more substantial needlework edging called sorka, similar to the Turkish oya. The woven scarf tucked into the waist was essential; a newly married woman was not supposed to be seen on the street without one. (Young Brides, Old Treasures: Macedonian Embroidered Dress, edited by Bobbie Sumberg, 2011).Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.77.17, Belt: Zunica, c. 1920
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.18, Chemise: kosula, c. 1920
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.19, Dickey: Manta, c. 1920
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.20, Vest: elek, c. 1920
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.21, Waist towel: Waist towel, c. 1920
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.22, Head scarf: Kavrak, c. 1920
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.23, Head scarf: Kalavatka, c. 1920
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.24, Jacket: Mintan, c. 1920
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.33, Necklace: Bead necklace, 20th century
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.34, Flower bouquet: Flower bouquet, 20th century
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.76.37, Flower bouquet: Flower bouquet, 20th century
Parts of Ensemble: A.2010.77.18, Apron: Apron, c. 1920
