DepartmentTextiles-Middle East
Jillayeh
NameDress
Artist
Artist Not Recorded
CulturePalestinian
Dateca. 1910
Place madeGaza, Palestinian Territory, Middle East/West Asia, Asia
MediumIndigo dyed linen, silk applique, silk embroidery
Dimensionsoverall: 1 M 38 CM X 1 M 39.5 CM (FROM SLEEVE TIP TO SLEEVE TIP)
Credit LineIFAF Collection
Object numberFA.1972.25.20
Collections
FA. 72.25-20 Jillayeh (ca. 1910) (Fig. 32 and Plate 21) This wedding dress from Faluja resembles very closely the jillayehs of the Hebron region, especially from such towns as Beit Jibrin, only fourteen or fifteen kilometers away (see FA. 72.25-1). This jillāyeh is a very dark, almost black, indigo blue linen of varying textures. It has short wing sleeves. The embroidery is mostly red silk cross stitch with highlights in orange, green, and blue. The qabbeh consists exclusively of the tile motif (balāt). The green, gold, and red heremsy silk appliqué on the front of the skirt is typical of the Hebron region's tripartite silk appliqué with the miḥrāb-shaped central panel. All three panels are decorated with zigzag slits, while the middle panel also has some embroidery. The sides of the skirt are entirely covered with embroidery. The high diyāl consists mainly of the wave motif (mūj) topped by two rows of feathers (rish), and finally a row of cypresses (saru). On the outside of the sleeves are three vertical heremsy panels in the same colors as the front appliqué. Each panel is separated from the next by a very fine border of fish-bone stitching (sabaleh or habkeh). On either side of these three triangular panels is the purple, orange, and green strips of abū hizz aḥmar fabric. A scalloped atlas silk appliqué runs along the edge at the wrist. The yoke of this dress is made from maroon velvet. Length: 140 cm. Width: 98 cm. (Palestinian Costume and Jewelry, Yedida Kalfon Stillman, 1979 ISBN: 0-82630490-7)
