DepartmentTextiles-Asia
Thobe Malakeh Abū Warda
NameDress
Artist
Artist unrecorded
DateLate 19th century
Place madeBethlehem, West Bank, Palestine Territory, Middle East or West Asia, Asia
MediumLinen, silk, metallic thread
Credit LineGift of Florence Dibell Bartlett
Object numberA.1955.1.591 SW
DescriptionRed, orange and black embroidered squares on chest. Part of the Bethlehem thobe/dress types.Old #2027 Thõb Malakeh Abū Warda (late nineteenth century) (Plate 5) This dress has the flowered stripes which give it the name (thob malakeh) abū warda. The fabric is a combination of handwoven, indigo linen weft, rusty red, orange, and green silk, and solid linen. There is multicolored embroidery in tightly twisted silk and gold metallic couching on the sawā'id, benāyeq, and qabbeh. In addition to the usual repertory of Bethlehem motifs, as found on nos. 3363 and FA. 72.25–14, there are several signs of the cross. Length: 141 cm. Width: 107.5. The thob malakeh abū warda or “flowered royal fabric.” It is similar to the malakeh but has a design of small red flowers in the stripe. Women in Bethlehem proper did not, at first, use this type of cloth. It was originally made for peasants in villages throughout Central and Southwestern Palestine who wanted to imitate the Bethlehem fashion for their bridal costume. These fabrics were woven into standard lengths of five or six yards, which was adequate for one dress. At the end of each piece silver weft threads were woven into the fabric.25 This part of the cloth is called muqaşşab ("brocaded with metallic thread,” qașab). The metallic thread (used in lamé fabrics) was first imported from Germany, later from France. The brocaded end piece was used for the diyāl, the back hem panel of the Bethlehem dress. 26 Bethlehem dresses were made up of many individual pieces. (Palestinian Costume and Jewelry, Yedida Kalfon Stillman, 1979 ISBN: 0-82630490-7)
